I am going to type this while attempting to watch a pretty amazing sleaze fest film entitled The Erotic Diary of a Lumberjack. It's part of a recently released 70's French Erotica collection. It's tame by todays standards but I highly recommend it. Just watch it and don't judge my taste. Besides, while talking about 70's cars shouldn't I have the appropriate type film on? I'm not a genius, but sometimes I have some damn good ideas.
Now Down to the business at hand:
What's the deal with the red wire?
Now I did some research at http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/ to find what I should and shouldn't do.
I knew that my car was dying after a few days. The battery was brand new (bought it the day after I got my car since i had it die the night before and didnt think to pull out the voltage meter). The starter would slowly turn and i could see my lights dim. So After figuring out what Alternator I should put back in here (I told them "a '79 chevy camaro 305)., I read some more to figure out why certain wires where loose coming off of my distributor.
What i found was this: http://www.mgexperience.net/article/delco.html a fantastic how to for wiring these alts to your mg.
I removed my old ALT and noticed the J bracket was busted.
Old busted ass bracket
so I purchased a generic Alt bracket from the auto shop for about 15 bucks. It was way way way too long. After a saw and a new bolt hole it was ready for installation.
new chrome (ugly) j bracket cut/drilled
I mounted it loosely and installed the ALT. Got the belt nice and tight then moved on to the wiring of this beast.
old vs. new. and my shoe.
Now there are four wires coming off of this new ALT. I followed a forum members instructions for wiring. (Thanks Ramon) they are as follows:
GM 10-SI QUICK & SIMPLE Wiring Instructions:
The following is a set of generic procedures for setting up a GM 10si alternator. The 10si is an earlier version of the 12si. Note that it MUST be in a NEGATIVE (-) ground environment! A GM 10si will NOT work in a POSITIVE (+) ground configuration.
The standard GM 10-SI alternator has three terminals, however only two wires on it will get connected directly to the car. On a 10si (or 12si) alternator the top two spade connectors need to be setup like this [- -] and NOT like this [ | | ]. The second design is the older yet late 1960s alternator design that needs an externally mounted voltage regulator. The following instructions are for using NEW wires and NOT existing wires. (YOU can modify this by testing you existing wires to determine how they are setup.)
INSTRUCTIONS
STEP ONE:
Using the 16 gauge wire on the alernator plug adapter, connect the number “2” terminal directly to the “BAT” post terminal on the back of the alternator. This wire will only need to be about 4 inches long. (Looking at alternator from rear the #2 spade is on the right side).
STEP TWO:
Connect a 12 gauge wire from the alternator's “BAT” screw post terminal to the large post on the solenoid.
STEP THREE:
The number “1” terminal should be connected to the ignition switch circuit with 16 gauge wire so the alternator only receives power to excite it when the key is “on”. A good spot for this connection would be the extra (unused) #5 (white wire) spade on the fusebox. (Looking at alternator from rear the #1 spade is on the left side)
NOTE: The #1 circuit is where you need to place a one amp / 50 volt inline diode. This needs to be installed here to prevent backward current flow through the alternator when the ignition switch is “off”. THE BATTERY WILL DISCHARGE WITHOUT THIS. Check your electronics shop such as RadioShack for a source the diode.
((Some thought here is that it "might" be possible to wire this through one of the existing wires that go to the red charge light on the dash. I just do not know concerning that possibility))
NOTES:
This installation will be greatly simplified by purchasing a suitable alternator socket pigtail repair part from your local autoparts house.
If you do this, just put 1/4 inch eye terminal on the #2 wire and put it over the alternator battery post.
Next, attach your 10 or 12 gauge wire to the same "BAT" terminal and run it to the large post on the solenoid.
Finally, attach the diode IN THE CORRECT DIRECTION to the #1 wire from the alternator and run This wire to the #5 white spade post on your fuse box.
Remember that the whole key issue for this to work correctly is the diode! The diode allows the 12V current to flow in one direction only. When connecting it, it needs to be installed so the current flows in the direction of the alternator, but not in the other way.
When using a crimp terminal I always use a piece of shrink tubing on it afterwards to seal it from the elements.
--------------------------------------------------
Pretty simple when all is said and done... assuming you figure out the diode path... on the package it shows you which way to wire it in line.
GM 10-SI QUICK & SIMPLE Wiring Instructions:
The following is a set of generic procedures for setting up a GM 10si alternator. The 10si is an earlier version of the 12si. Note that it MUST be in a NEGATIVE (-) ground environment! A GM 10si will NOT work in a POSITIVE (+) ground configuration.
The standard GM 10-SI alternator has three terminals, however only two wires on it will get connected directly to the car. On a 10si (or 12si) alternator the top two spade connectors need to be setup like this [- -] and NOT like this [ | | ]. The second design is the older yet late 1960s alternator design that needs an externally mounted voltage regulator. The following instructions are for using NEW wires and NOT existing wires. (YOU can modify this by testing you existing wires to determine how they are setup.)
INSTRUCTIONS
STEP ONE:
Using the 16 gauge wire on the alernator plug adapter, connect the number “2” terminal directly to the “BAT” post terminal on the back of the alternator. This wire will only need to be about 4 inches long. (Looking at alternator from rear the #2 spade is on the right side).
STEP TWO:
Connect a 12 gauge wire from the alternator's “BAT” screw post terminal to the large post on the solenoid.
STEP THREE:
The number “1” terminal should be connected to the ignition switch circuit with 16 gauge wire so the alternator only receives power to excite it when the key is “on”. A good spot for this connection would be the extra (unused) #5 (white wire) spade on the fusebox. (Looking at alternator from rear the #1 spade is on the left side)
NOTE: The #1 circuit is where you need to place a one amp / 50 volt inline diode. This needs to be installed here to prevent backward current flow through the alternator when the ignition switch is “off”. THE BATTERY WILL DISCHARGE WITHOUT THIS. Check your electronics shop such as RadioShack for a source the diode.
((Some thought here is that it "might" be possible to wire this through one of the existing wires that go to the red charge light on the dash. I just do not know concerning that possibility))
NOTES:
This installation will be greatly simplified by purchasing a suitable alternator socket pigtail repair part from your local autoparts house.
If you do this, just put 1/4 inch eye terminal on the #2 wire and put it over the alternator battery post.
Next, attach your 10 or 12 gauge wire to the same "BAT" terminal and run it to the large post on the solenoid.
Finally, attach the diode IN THE CORRECT DIRECTION to the #1 wire from the alternator and run This wire to the #5 white spade post on your fuse box.
Remember that the whole key issue for this to work correctly is the diode! The diode allows the 12V current to flow in one direction only. When connecting it, it needs to be installed so the current flows in the direction of the alternator, but not in the other way.
When using a crimp terminal I always use a piece of shrink tubing on it afterwards to seal it from the elements.
--------------------------------------------------
Pretty simple when all is said and done... assuming you figure out the diode path... on the package it shows you which way to wire it in line.
new alt. new bracket.
The car has been driven almost every day for about two weeks and no voltage issues yet. (knock on wood). lights work great at night and I can run a radio, lights and interior lights without any problems. I guess this fixed it.
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